Milan Menswear Runway Review-Missoni Spring 2010

If the Missoni man summoned up by the show notes sounded like a grandiose, nomadic romantic (fashion-appropriate, in other words), the actual outfits on the catwalk suggested someone much humbler: rambling man as hobo. The giveaway was the shoes—dusty, elongated canvas kicks with turned-up toes. The clothes themselves, seemingly collaged and patched together from faded old bits and pieces, extended the illusion of someone not too dogged by material concerns. Topical maybe, but also a little ironic given the eventual price tag on these garments.

Milan Menswear Runway Review-Burberry Prorsum Spring 2010

Elizabeth II just made Christopher Bailey a Member of the British Empire, an award that usually arrives for services rendered to queen and country. Bailey is the most tirelessly Anglophiliac of designers, exalting even the aspect of life in England that makes most outsiders bananas: the weather! It's a misconception anyway—the French and the Germans have it just as bad—but in Bailey's case, the day that begins with a thunderstorm and ends in a rain-rinsed, wistfully pastel sunset offered the perfect beginning, middle, and end to his latest collection for Burberry.

Backstage, he was insistent about a utilitarian aspect to what we'd seen, and form following function actually gave the clothes real spine, particularly with a yellow parka that looked like a lifeboat man's sou'wester. A long coat in waxed-cotton canvas had enough pockets to make the most irredeemable poacher blissfully happy. And Thomas Burberry himself would have appreciated the way his gutsy gabardine showed up in a waterproof coat or cape.

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